The sealing heat of open flames, the intriguing sizzle of cooking beef, the rising smoke that tells you that piece of meat has been on the griddle a little too long. It's classic, it's good for summer, it'shappening in the middle of your table?

These soaked scraps of short ribs and sirloin might be cooked on a charcoal griddle, but that griddle's on your table and the beef's managed with chopsticks. This 'cue isn't Yankee, it's Korean, and it's causing quite a mix in towns all over the country. What started as a gap party dish in Korean districts and houses has grown into a gourmet trend, and even wine bars like Chicagoland's Flight now serve some permutation of Korean-style BBQ. The most well liked form of Korean barbecue, known as "gal bi" or "kalbi," contains meat short ribsoften cut off the bone, but historically served on itprepared in a complicated marinade for at least two days, then served uncooked to diners who cook it right there and eat it on the spot. It is a popular picnic dish in Korea, a fixture as regular as Italian food in Japan, and a grand social experience wherever you are. Chums shortly jockey to see who can cook beef quicker, the group cooking fosters conversation, and the rewardssucculently griddled, juicy, umami-rich pieces of beef fresh of the grillare really worth the additional effort. Frequently these bits of shortrib are wrapped up in cool lettuce, dipped in some sauce, and devoured ; one thinks of Atkins-friendly burgers, but trust us, this stuff is far better. The beef is the star of the show, but the entire Korean barbecue experience offers a wide selection of tastes, via the concurrent banchan, or side plates.

If the beef is a new twist on an old fave, then banchan are novel experiences whose results may vary : it's a mixture of leafy veg, pickles, and the Korean staple "kimchi." Kimchi particularly may take some becoming familiar with ; prepared by salting, preserving, or fermenting assorted veg, its flavour varies from sweet to spicy and is always a nice shock to the tongue.

Though considered a side plate, banchan is not designed to be mixed with the beef but rather enhances it.

According to the good folks at The Food Section, you must also avoid using the already mentioned lettuce to form a leafy burritoproper gal bi consumption involves ripping off little shreds of lettuce, wrapping each piece individually, and chowing down that way. It is a bit less hearty than a massive meat wrap, maybe, but much more mannered.

Tact could be a gigantic deal, especially if you are at a formal or family Korean gathering. Rules range between correct placement of chopsticks ( don't stick 'em in your rice bowl ) to ideal speed of eating ( don't finish too quickly or too slow ).

If you would like to chase down a Korean barbecue cafe, look for your nearest Koreatown ; you will definitely find some. Or you might try out some Fusion cuisine ; if the cafe has Korean influences, you will likely see gal bi on the menu. And if you'd like to make it yourself, you can give this recipe a shot.

So this summer, consider a new spin on the classic 'cue. Set up a griddle, pour a pitcher of soju, and confirm no-one takes your cut of the food.